January 24, 2014
Serious Red Fizz

Emilia-Romagna may not be as famous as Venice for its canals (though it does have them) or as Florence for its art (there’s plenty of that, too), but it is home to some of the best food on the planet. Parmeggiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, lasagne, tagliatelle al ragu, and tortellini were all invented in this region in central Italy. In balance to the richness of the cuisine, the wines have been traditionally light—and sometimes even lackluster. But, as Mae West would say, when they are good, they are very good. Barbolini’s Lambrusco is a stellar example of the region’s capability: a complex red sparkler with firm tannins and food friendliness.

Barbolini is one of the stalwart Lambrusco makers in the region—they’ve been producing the fizzy stuff since 1889. It may be a playful wine, but they do not treat their Lambrusco lightly: they are certified organic, hand-harvesting, naturally fermenting zealots. They keep their yields low and employ cutting-edge methods and equipment, including soft pressing, thermo-controlled fermentation, and no irrigation. Their grapes come from the Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC south of Modena, which is one of the smallest appellations, and one of Lambrusco’s most illustrious. Barbolini’s Lambrusco ‘Lancillotto’ is made entirely from a clone called Lambrusco Grasparossa grown on loose, sandy-clay, which produces dry, full-bodied, and food-friendly wines with ample tannins. Secondary fermentation happens via Charmat method, and the resulting bubbles show themselves in a deep purple froth.

The wine is a brooding plum color, and the initial nose is very berried up front. It mellows into a more nuanced palate, maintaining the fresh berries, but settling into layers of dried lavender, minerality, and plum. It’s medium in weight, and finishes with firm tannins. Serve slightly chilled, and with a heaping plate of salami, mortadella, and prosciutto.