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May 24, 2012
Ata Rangi - Old Vine Pinot in Martinborough
[Article is from Wine Specator's June 2012 issue. Pinot Noir Trail is written by James Laube.]
Old vines, a bootleg clone and a passion for Martinborough give Ata Rangi Pinot Noir its character. Winemaker Helen Masters explains it this way. The 32-year-old vines, ancient by New Zealand standards, have a deeper root system that causes the grapes to ripen more slowly than those on younger vines. That, in turn, gives the wines finer tannins, more texture and greater length.
The Gumboot clone, smuggled to New Zealand from Burgundy in a rubber boot, is a lighter-flowing clone whose grapes take their time to ripen. "They tend not to respond to the fact it's autumn and the sugar accumulation is much slower," Says winemaker Helen Masters.
Ata Rangi was a small sheep paddock in 1980 when Clive Paton bought it. Grapes were unheard of in this tiny crossroad of a town (pop. 1,000) an hour north of Wellington.
Masters, 40, began her career at Ata Rangi at age 18, then worked at vineyards around the world before returning there 2003. "The texture and length of the [Pinots] from Martinborough have always been what has attracted me to the region." she says. "The wines have density without heaviness. That's what led me back to Martinborough."
Ata Rangi 2010 Pinot Noir rated 94pts (2009 currently in stock - rated 92pts WA).
