Domaine Jacques Carillon
The Carillon family traces its viticultural roots in Puligny back to the sixteenth century. There are documents from 1520 attesting to the presence in that locale of Jehan Carillon. The estate has always been run with a scrupulous regard and respect for the traditions of Burgundy and has achieved renown as a producer of the most classic, often understated but always compelling, wines of this village. Now, beginning with the 2010 vintage, the estate has been divided in two, to be shared between Jacques and Francois, the two sons of Louis Carillon. Here we present the wines of Jacques Carillon.
The Carillons have always applied the most rigorous standards to their work in the vineyards, affecting a near organic methodology. No herbicides are used; the earth is turned by plow and by hand, the vines are pruned short to control production, a severe debudding is practiced and a green harvest is practiced when deemed necessary. Harvest is always manual, a pneumatic press is utilized, fermentation and elevage occur in barrel for at least one year, batonnage is done (judiciously!) and, before bottling, the wines are racked into stainless steel cuves for six months to settle and clarify. The dual goals are to produce ageworthy wines that are intensely expressive of their respective terroirs. They have managed to achieve those goals with stunning regularity.
Jacques Carillon produces wine from 5.5 hectares with the overwhelming majority of the vineyards being situated within Puligny-Montrachet with additional holdings in Chassagne Montrachet, Saint Aubin and Mercurey.
Wine Advocate 4/2018
"Revisiting Jacques Carillon's 2015s from bottle was a pleasure, as the vintage has meshed well with the domaine's understated, elegant style. The wines handle the warmth of the year better as one ascends the appellation hierarchy, the high points being an authoritative Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and lovely 1er crus from Perrières and Réferts, the latter seemingly having the edge this year. The lower appellations are more sun-kissed in style and seem adapted to near-term enjoyment."
Wine Advocate 12/2014
"I was knocked-out by the quality of Jacques’s 2013s, one of the Côte de Beaune growers who may have made even better wines in 2013 than in 2012. They are all imbued with bracing acidity, crisp delineation and a compelling sense of energy and tension – pure expressions of their respect terroirs. These were some of my favorite white 2013s. Beg or bribe your local merchant for a few bottles."
Wine Advocate 12/2013
"It was a pleasure to visit Jacques Carillon in Puligny at his winery adjacent to the village church, barely 20 meters from the winery of his brother, Francois. Like all the Carillon family, there seems to be a separate building for each stage of vinification. The family’s roots penetrate deep into Puligny’s history books, since Jehan Caillon tended vines in 1520. When their father Louis’ domaine was split between his two sons in 2009, Jacques and his wife Sylvie seemed to acquire more of the vineyard holdings (5.25 hectares in total), while Francois’ operation leans more toward a negociant structure. Their first separate vintage was in 2010. 'It was cold during flowering,' Jacques explained, climbing up a ladder to extract his 2012’s from stainless steel vat, 'and there was a lot of millerandage. We were affected by hail three times during the summer and consequently we lost 70% of the crop for the premier crus. But the malolactics went well and finished at the end of April compared to mid-June. The wines are showing good minerality.' His 2012s were some of the finest that I encountered from the appellation: even the village cru displaying Carillon’s trademark precision and each cuvee seeming to add on another layer of complexity until you reached the spellbinding grand cru."