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April 02, 2014
Huck Am Bach - Schiava Goodness
St. Magdalener—a small DOC from Alto Adige—probably isn’t on many people’s radar, but it should be, and will be once they try the 2012 ‘Huck Am Bach’ from Bolzano. With a beautiful cherry red color in the glass and a texture like rose petals, it hits aesthetic high notes from the outset. It’s juicy and soft, with distinctive strawberry, raspberry, and mineral aromas. The tannins are smooth and the acid provides structure, so there’s a lovely yin-yang between seriousness and play, especially when served with a slight chill.
Bolzano is the joint venture of two historical wineries dedicated to vintifying native grapes that don’t see much light elsewhere: Vernatsch (AKA Schiava) and Lagrein. Bolzano’s St. Magdalener is 90 percent Vernatsch and 10 percent Lagrein, which adds a bit of structure. The Vernatsch grapes are sourced from the loose, sandy soil on the warm slopes at the foot of Renon. They employ green cultivation methods and rigorous selection of the best quality grapes. The juice is aged in large oak barrels after fermentation.
Framed by the Tyrol mountains, this Italian wine zone shares much of its cultural and winemaking traditions with Austria, its neighbor to the north, and their wines go perfectly with the Italo-Austrian fare. The medium-body St. Magdalener is a refreshing companion to potatoes, cabbage, smoky mushrooms and sausages, apples, dumplings, and cheeses. In fact, a plate of gnocchi next to a glass of ‘Huck Am Bach’ just might send you yodeling through the mountains in happiness.
