December 30, 2013
Journey Beyond Barolo

Wine has been made in Piedmont for centuries, but it was the French influence while the region was part of the House of Savoy that most shaped what’s happening there today. During the 18th century, French enologist Louis Oudart helped the marchioness of Barolo develop a wine after the style of Bordeaux from the native Nebbiolo grape. Powerful, aromatic, and age-worthy, Barolo wine became favored by the nobility and dubbed the “King of Wines.” Since that time, Barolo wines and, more recently, those from Barbaresco and the Langhe, have stayed in the spotlight for their ability to show sheer power and nuance. Yet with Piedmont’s dense concentration of wine-producing zones (52 DOCs—more than any other Italian region), there’s no reason to stay on the beaten path. Discoveries—and deliciousness—abound when you branch out beyond the famous DOCs.

Da Capo Winery is located in Agliano Terme, among the hills of Monferrato, just north of the Langhe. Winemaker Paolo Dania’s approach is eclectic: he makes classic examples of DOCs, as well as blends of native and international varietals. Da Capo’s Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato is reason in and of itself to explore more obscure appellations. Made with the (likely) native Ruché grape, it’s only been recognized as a DOCG since 2010, and the zone covers only 100 acres, making it one of the smallest production varietals in the country. The 2012 vintage is nothing short of captivating. Lively and exotic aromatics are layered on a round, silky palate with soft tannins. Rose marks a strong note, with mint, gardenia, juicy cranberry, and lychee in the mix. The lovely ruby color and playful perfumes make it just plain fun to drink. View All Da Capo Wines In Stock

For wine drinkers looking for the same aromatic complexity they expect from Barolo, but housed in a more delicate framework, the Sesia River in the far north of the region is an excellent place to begin. With a cooler, damper climate than its neighbors to the south, the finicky Nebbiolo grape takes even longer to ripen here, so it picks up plenty of acidity along the way. The resulting wines have lower alcohol and a generally lighter body, but maintain that characteristically intriguing Nebbioloness, with layers of earth and tar and spice bound by firm tannins. Gritty soils of glacial moraine and Alpine breezes add to the complexity, while native grapes like Croatina and Bonarda often creep into blends to add a level of interest.

Lessona is the northernmost wine-producing comune in the Piedmont region, and one of the smallest. It makes up a small swatch in the Vercelli Hills at the Sesia River basin, 70 miles northeast of Turin (view map). Here, Nebbiolo goes by the name Spanna, and can be blended (up to 25 percent) with Bonarda, Vespolina, or Croatina to still earn the DOC. The DOC was created in 1976, but the area has a long history of wine growing. In the 19th century, it was covered with 40,000 hectares of vines. It takes a hardy grower to succeed with Nebbiolo in this climate, and now the vines are much more scarce, and are nearly overwhelmed by woods.

Proprieta’ Sperino has proven to be of the right kind of stock to make it work in this region. It’s been producing Lessona wines since the 19th century and is dedicated to bringing the tradition of Lessona to the modern world, now with well-known winemaker Paolo de Marchi at the helm. The property is situated in the Castello quarter of Biella province, with the majority of its vines grown at the foot of Monte Rosa. Its yellow and marine sands have been well-protected by the Alps, and the soil maintains some of the highest levels of acidity in the world. This fact, coupled with its dry climate, cool breezes, and long growing season, make for extremely complex grapes with the potential for long-lived wines.

Proprieta’ Sperino Lessona 2008 is an homage to the region, and is 95 to 100 percent Nebbiolo. The 2008 vintage experienced a hot Indian summer, lending ripeness to the flavors, with notes of rose, tar, mint, chocolate, and truffles. (Early spring arrival for Sperino 2009 Lessona.) The Sperino 2010 Uvaggio is sourced from both Lessona vineyards (marine sands and glacial sediment) and neighboring Bramaterra (pebbles and igneous rock with china clay). Nebbiolo comprises 65 percent of the blend, with Vespolina and Croatina rounding out the rest. The result is a very approachable wine, with a significant amount of body and smoother tannins. Initial aromas are black currant, herbs, and pepper, giving way to a round palate of vanilla, black fruits, and coffee. In Piedmont, where the choice of aging vessel is a political one (flying your winemaking flag for tradition or modernization), Sperino splits the difference in this wine and ages their juice in three different vessels: botti, barrique, and oval casks. View All Proprieta’ Sperino Wines In Stock

These producers are excellent examples of what the rest of Piedmont is up to. Da Capo and Sperino are deeply passionate about their roots in the region and the traditions their wines harken back to, but the expression of each shows a uniquely distinct interpretation. There is a voice behind these wineries—one that knows where it came from and what that means to the modern world. And let me tell you, it’s hauntingly good.