|SuperUco 2014 Calcáreo 'Coluvio de Altamira' Malbec, San Carlos||Login||WE 91|
This project began in 2012 as an inspiration to focus on the pure soul and terroir of the Uco Valley, specifically Gualtallary and Vista Flores. The Michelini brothers, also the owners of Mendoza’s renowned Zorzal, are creating their first biodynamic wines under this label. The three “main” Michelini brothers (Gerardo, Matias and Juanpi) are joined by “the fourth Michelini,” Gabriel, who is not involved in the other projects. The outdoor winery consists of egg-shaped concrete amphorae in The Vines of Mendoza’s Winemaker’s Village project. This boutique, biodynamic project is the first of its kind in Mendoza with very limited production of quality, terroir-driven wines. The two hectare farm is planted in circles with 360 degrees of exposure to the sun. The different varietals are planted from the center outward, as its vegetative cycle dictates.
Wine Enthusiast: Argentine Wine Redefined
The Crafty Cask: SuperUco Winery…Truly Super In Every Sense
"Among the most exciting Argentine wines I’ve been tasting in recent years are those made by the four Michelini brothers, especially those bottled under the SuperUco, Michelini Wines and Zorzal labels. The very distinctive—one might say groundbreaking—Michelini style is natural, fresh, savory and low in alcohol. “We are viticulturists, not enologists,” said Matías Michelini. Of course, their ventures are centered around Gualtallary and its stony, higher-altitude, calcaire-rich, well-drained vineyards, an area with a strong tendency toward producing sharply delineated, energetic, mineral-driven and sometimes rather sinewy wines. I visited them—Matías, Gerardo and Gabriel, with only Juan Pablo away on business—at their decidedly low-tech round winery in the middle of their densely planted SuperUco vineyard in Vista Flores, Tunuyán, where they ferment their wines in concrete amphoras, then age them in 500-liter barrels, reserving barriques for their more expensive bottlings.
The brothers do not own a destemmer (“stems make drier, finer wines,” according to Matías), and after crushing the grapes by foot (“the feet of our children,” of whom the four brothers and their two sisters have 22), dump them into the amphoras using buckets. They do not pump over during the fermentation, which occurs with the indigenous yeasts, and they never acidify their wines. The sugar fermentations sometimes finish the following spring, but the wines stand out for their dryness, not to mention their length. The SuperUco wines are never racked until just prior to the bottling, which takes place 14 to 18 months after the harvest. And use of SO2 is minimal: just a bit during the crush and then for the bottling.
Wine Advocate 8/2015
"There is a new line in 2013, wines from chalky soils, called "calcáreo," single vineyards from different places all chalk-based, but with different combinations of rocks, granite or colluvial stones. I tasted three Malbecs that represent the places very faithfully. All these wines are produced with full clusters that are foot trodden to break the grape as they don't want carbonic maceration and do a very gentle extraction. The wines fermented in large cement amphorae and then mature in well-seasoned oak barrels, looking for a neutral container that does not give aromas to the wines and respects the character of each place. Everything is done manually, basically, unplugged wines. These are benchmark Michelini wines."